4.5 how can I make a corset?

From: Lorelle Anderson

Making Your Own Corset
If you like sewing and you're ready for a challenge, you might want to try making your own corset. Not only will you save a little money, you'll also get a corset custom-made to your own specifications (without the frustration of trying to explain your vision to a seamstress).

Corset makers should be somewhat familiar with historical corsetry, since that is where all corset designs come from, no matter how fantastic and exotic. The basic constuction of a corset is the same. Also, you might want to start by sewing a corset in fabric first, unless you are already experienced in the particulars of sewing on leather.

One of the most popular corset styles is the Victorian hourglass shape. This classic corset nips in the waist and emphasizes the curve of both the bust and the hips. Another popular style from history is the 17th century "Dangerous Liasions" style. This is a conical shaped corset that pushes the breasts up and out, plus it usually has shoulder straps. Both corsets work well in leather and fabric, and the basic design is well documented so you'll have plenty of resources to work with.

1) Patterns
An excellent book on the history of corsetry is Corsets and Crinolines by Nora Waugh. This book also has many patterns that you can enlarge and use for your sewing project. It is available by mail-order from AlterYears and can be ordered from better book stores.

Several companies manufacture historical corset patterns with detailed instructions for 17th century through Victorian corsets. Past Patterns makes both patterns and complete kits that have everything you need to make a Victorian corset. These products and many others are available by mail-order from AlterYears and Amazon Dry Goods (see section 2.3). They are not commonly available at fabric or sewing supply stores, although some stores can special order them.

2) Boning
This is the essence of the corset -- the boning! It's what makes the corset stiff and sturdy and what shapes the body. The best boning is made of sprung steel -- anything less is not worth it. Plastic feather-boning is suitable for giving a dress a touch of shape, but it will not nip in the waist or push up the bust. Steel boning is available from larger sewing and theatrical supply stores, as well as by mail-order from AlterYears and Amazon Dry Goods as well as Richard the Thread (see section 4.3).

3) Fabric
For corsets that are meant to be seen, I like baroque satin. It's the really heavy satin, but I double-layer it just to make sure it holds. After all the work I put into my corsets, a rip would be a bad thing. Other useful fabrics would be heavy cotton, such as suiting or poplin, or damask/brocade. All of these fabrics are $5/yd. or less. Black satin, in particular, looks very very nice.

4) Boning Channels
These can be made by edge-stitching ribbon to the corset where you want the bones, then sliding the bones in between the ribbon and the corset. If you're making a double-layer corset, you can also stitch the layers together to make channels, then slide the bones in. In any case, measure your bones first, and plan accordingly. Also, either hem the bottom or bind it with ribbon, so the bones don't slide out.

5) Eyelet Holes and Lacing
I don't recommend using your basic eyelet, since that tends to pop out too easily. Use grommets if you're going to use anything like that. Lacing can be anything that won't stretch and will stay tied (and will look nice). In the past, I've used basic cotton clothesline. It can even be dyed to match whatever you've done.

From: StrangeGirl
(lecture mode on)
Just so you know, from a person who has professionally made corsets in the past, they are that pricey for three reasons.

1) Labor-intensive. Even with a professional quality shop, a corset can take between 5 and 20 hours to produce, depending on the style/cut/ornamentation/convertability/production methods/materials (some materials *require* more working time and patience than others). Hand sewing can double or triple working time, hand embroidery quadruple it.

2) Highly skilled, specialized labor costs. Pattern drafting, cutting, sewing, finishing. If you were to receive a statement of hourly charges, you would probably find that the labor costs (including all overhead costs worked in -- rent, utilities, upkeep of the shop, etc.) would run about 15-25 dollars an hour. About 50-75% of which might be considered wages, or a combination of profit and wages.

3) Expensive materials. Due to a relatively low demand in proportion to production cost for corset hardware, the base cost of corset hardware is fairly high. Snap-busks (the boned 'knob-and-loop' closures seen on the fronts of most modern corsets) retail for 20-35 dollars *each*. Wholesale they would run about 10-15 each. The boning itself is cheap by the piece, but if a lot is used, it can add up. And fancy fabrics and fittings add on to those costs.

(lecture mode off)

So base cost for a corset is pretty high. And you want your corset made by somebody who knows what they are doing -- you don't want one that fits poorly or is made badly so it falls apart, or is finished poorly so the bones poke through and jab you.

PVC as a material adds a *whole skillset* onto the ones needed, not to mention time, to produce a corset that fits. This is presuming you mean a black shiny vinyl on top of some stout base fabric corset, and not a rubber corset, which is *yet another skillset*. Sewing vinyl is a *bitch*, and I have been doing it fairly successfully for years. And griping all the way. *grin* Oh... and if you want buckles all down the front, that is super-expensive... not just because of the hardware (pretty pricey itself), but because the they are hard to do well. Yet *another skillset*.

Ummm... I just wanted to mention that this is meant as advice, not flamage, since on re-reading it I have sounded like a bit of a... ummm... errrr... sewing fascist. All this is meant so you don't get screwed by somebody who promises something they cannot deliver for the price you want to pay. If they are underselling their skills, find out why and ask to see a portfolio of work. You want to go with somebody who does reputable work.

And you *want your corset to fit*, not be too short or long, so they should ask for measurements to customize your pattern from. If they say they can produce your corset for less than $300, find out exactly why. If it's mass-produced, it may help you discover a back problem you didn't know about before, unless you are blessed with a strikingly average figure... If it's poorly made or the materials are shoddy, it won't be worth the reduced amount you paid them anyway.

This whole question of wanting corsets and pretty clothes and not wanting to pay for them is why I learnt to sew in the first place... You may end up learning to sew... :) Alternatively, if you are willing to save up for a nicely made corset, it will last you ages if you take good care of it.

back to 4.4 sew my own historical style clothing or
on to 4.6 make a cape/cloak

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