4.11 how can I make a lined ammo box purse?

From: Thessaly
Here's what I used to make a velvet-lined ammo box purse: about 1/3 yard of velvet, slightly less quilt batting, posterboard, tacky glue, lavender potpourri (optional!)

I measured the interiors of the box and cut the posterboard to the exact measurements of each panel, with no bottom panel, and minus about 1" in height to allow room for the lining before closing the box.

I cut one panel of batting that was as big as both of the large sides of the box, with the bottom panel between them, and separate panels for the small sides of the box. What you want is for the batting to make a U across the bottom of the box.

Glue the two bigger posterboard panels to their respective ends of the long batting piece. When this is done, you should be able to stand them against the walls of the box that they will eventually adhere to, and there should be a few inches of plain batting crossing the bottom of the box, taut between them. When you glue the posterboard to the walls (NOT YET!!), you want the batting to face the inside of the box. This is so that your box will not be noisy and clunky (it will be anyhow, but this should help a bit).

Glue the smaller separate pieces of batting to their respective posterboards. Remember to face all the batting inwards!

Cut velvet to box measurements, but remember to add 1" to the measurements for sewing. You can cut each panel separately, which might work better if you are machine sewing, or you can cut this the same way that you have cut the batting (less sewing if by hand, and be sure to make TINY CLOSE STITCHES if you are, because you don't want to lose anything in the lining!). You will want to sew these together so that they make a box shape with the nappy side of the velvet on the inside and an open top.

Tape the edges of the posterboard together with masking tape, so that you have an insert the size and shape (minus an inch or less in height) of your ammo box, lined with batting and with an open top. Put your velvet lining into the middle of it, making sure that it fits all the way down (line up your seams with the posterboard box's seams). Fold the excess velvet (you should have at least 1/2" if you did this right) at the top over the edges of the box. Glue down (glue between velvet and posterboard).

You should now have something that looks like a lined ammo box with no actual ammo box shell. This is where you can put some potpourri in the bottom of your ammo box to improve its permanent smell. Smear glue all over the sides of the posterboard "ammo box" lined with velvet, bow the edges so that you can push it down into the ammo box. Once you have done so, push the edges back out from the inside so that they stick to the box. Allow to dry for a while. Yay.

OK... I'm sorry these instructions are so long-winded. It's hard to *not* be vague in places, and a lot of this would be better if illustrated with diagrams. This is just how I did it, and I am sure there are a number of other ways (some possibly better) to go about it. I also used a padded rubber baseball bat grip on the handle, because I couldn't find anything else. This works well if you glue the ends down.

More From: Thessaly
A) Forget the strap. It'd require riveting or drilling or welding or something. If you have any friends studying studio or fine arts, particularly sculpture, they *might* be able to do the welding for you (D-rings or something). But I wouldn't count on it. When I made the last one, I got the sort of padded strap tape they wind around the handles of baseball bats (and I'd imagine, in the UK, cricket bats). It's made the handle a bit more manageable. NTM that an ammobox is NOT really something I'd want to have hanging from my shoulder... the weight would be painful.

B) I wouldn't bother stripping it, but I would get sandpaper and a wire brush with which to remove any rust. Also maybe primer -- the boxes I've had have all had bright yellow text on the side, and you want something to cover that. Take the lid entirely off before you paint it. Examine the rubber seal... I had to take it off of the last one, because it stank to high heaven. It's very easy to pry out. If the box is difficult to open or close, or too easy to open or close, a hammer carefully applied to the "flaps" of the lid (inner side of the flap if it's too difficult, outer side if it's too easy) will make the box stay closed without being impossible to open or chipping the paint.

C) I do so strongly recommend the bit about the potpourri. Problem is, you *might* get hassled about the potpourri if you try to air-travel with the box -- if they think it's drugs. I never have been, but you know, it's something to consider. Anyways, it REALLY improves the longterm smell of the box, keeps it from smelling too metallic.

D) Other things you might consider having around while you work on said box -- Metallic spray paints. Glittery spray paints. Enamel paints (what ppl use on miniature model kits) and brushes. Masking tape. Spray-on clearcoat paint (i.e., clear acrylic spray). Mod Podge or other decoupage glue. Mirror or mirror pieces. Magnet supplies. Silly novelty findings -- googly eyes, fuzzballs, jewels, etc. Metallic embroidery floss (for embroidering the lining, or padding the handle like the pommel of a sword). Spray paint can handles (pressing the spray button with your finger can get painful after the first coat). Mineral spirits (for cleaning off the box after you've washed, brushed, and sanded it -- leaves a good clean painting surface, but is caustic, so be sure you're in a well-ventilated area!) Microglitters. A glue that works with metal. etc. Stickers, if you aren't painting anything onto said ammobox.

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